Olive & Maverik
Large Mini/Small Medium Multi-Gen Goldendoodles 30-40 lb
Born: June 27th
Match Date: When puppies are born and your name is placed on this list
Go home: August 20th

Olive had  4 babies beginning in the early hours of June 27th.  She has 1 extreem parti female that we will be keeping and adding to our breeding program.  She has one cream/apricot extreem parti male and two abstract cream/apricot male puppies.  We will be contacting those of you on our waiting list to add your name to this litter in the coming week. This list will be filled entirely by people who were already on our waiting list 2 months ago when this breeding took place.  These puppies will be a large mini/small medium sized puppy that we expect to mature to be about 30-40 pounds full grown.

Olive/Maverik Waiting list

1) Apricot/Red Extreme Parti Female (Breeders Pick)

2)Meranda Zhang (Cream/Apricot Abstract Male) Issaquah, WA (needs transport to Seattle) 

3).Xiaoguang Li (Cream/Apricot Abstract Male) Woodinville, WA

4) Delaney Fox Cream/Apricot Extreme Parti Male) Hailey, Id

Olive

Medium

F1b English

Goldendoodle

36 pounds, 19" tall

Red

Loose Wavy

non-shedding

Maverik

Miniature

Multi-Generational

Goldendoodle

31 pounds, 18" tall

Red Abstract

Loose Wavy

non-shedding

Olive

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Breed: F1b medium English Goldendoodle
Parents: Cali and Monty
Coat Color: Red Abstract
BB/ee, / Kb/ky at/at
Coat type: Wavy, non shedding
Hair Curl: C/c
Furnishings: F/f
Shed: C/C
Parti factor: Yes
Birth Day: January 1, 2018
Height: Estimated 19 inches
Weight: Estimated 36 pounds
Penn Hip: Right 0.31 Left 0.33
OFA Prelim: Pending
Elbows: Normal
Patella: Normal
Eye Cerf: Clear
Cardiac: Normal
Disease panel: Clear of all testable diseases through Embark (150 Diseases)
Lives with a guardian family in Pocatello

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"Olive/Maverik 6/17/2021" 6 weeks

(Green Boy) -Wavy/Abstract/Cream/Apricot (Blue Boy) -Wavy/Extreme Parti/Cream/Apricot

(Pink Girl) -Wavy/Extreme Parti/Apricot/Red  Orange)-Wavy/Abstract/Cream/Apricot

Video coming soon

We will give the puppies their first full bath this week.  Usually at first they act a little reserved but quickly warm up to the idea. Lots of our doodles are influenced by their poodle ancestors and they absolutely love water.

 

They will have their first little mini grooming session this week as well.  We trim their back sides to help keep them clean (mom stopped cleaning them when they started eating solid foods) and we cute the hair out of the corner of their eyes so that their vision development is unobstructed.  As always we keep their little razor sharp toenails trimmed as well. The puppies have gotten really fun to watch playing together. 

The puppies received fenbendazole (dewormer medicine) this past week as a preventive treatment for giardia and worms .

This is week 4 of the socialization period. Puppies have now learned to take food from my hand and are doing great with manding.  Every time we feed the puppies we call them with a high pitch "here pup, pup, pup, pup, pup, pup" similar to how you hear people call a kitty.  They now have a great recall down and will come any time I call out like this.  It is so important to have a good "recall" with a puppy to help keep them from trouble.  This recall will transition to the dogs name once you have him/her in your home.

Below I have outlined a few helpful tips for when your puppy comes home.

Feeding: We give our puppies free access to water all the time.  Your puppy is eating ¼-½  cup dry dog food three times a day. Puppies use the bathroom right after they eat and drink (and play and sleep) so having a feeding schedule will help get a routine set.  We also like to give food and water outside any time we can. We recommend that you start with three times a day and then move to twice a day as your puppy gets older. Take water up a couple of hours before bedtime.

Training: Your puppy is using a dog door to go outside to potty. While this is a great start to potty training your puppy still needs to learn that she HAS to go out to go potty. You will have to spend some time together to figure out how your puppy 'asks' to go out. Some sit by the door. Some scratch or whine at the door. Some will come get you. Some ring a bell. Once you have communication going it will be easier for you to pick up on your puppy’s cues and vice versa. While you are working on figuring out cues remember that puppies need to potty every couple of hours--especially after eating, sleeping and playing. They will usually sniff the ground and turn in a circle before they use the bathroom. Choose a potty area outside and take your puppy there every time they use the bathroom. It can be helpful to take them on a leash and keep them near you until they have finished. Once they have used the bathroom (give food treats liberally--braunschweiger is great for this!) take the leash off and let them run around and play.

 

We love clicker training for young puppies.  Using a clicker and treats is not bribing.  It's simply operant conditioning.  Puppies will do what works-- if sitting politely makes good things happen then your puppy will sit. We have lots of information about clicker training here..  We love BaxterandBella.com training website.  They use a marker work (yes) instead of a clicker.  Both work well for training and are interchangeable.

 

Sleeping: Your puppy has been sleeping in a crate but he/she hasn't slept ALONE in a crate. Sleeping without litter-mates is an adjustment--puppies have an instinct to cry when left alone as a protection mechanism. However, at 7-9 weeks your puppy can learn to sleep alone in a crate comfortably. There are a few things that can make that first adjustment a little easier. 1. Take up food and water a couple of hours before bedtime. 2. Choose a late bedtime. 3. Take your puppy potty just before you go to bed. 4. Hold, pet, soothe your puppy with you until she is dozing off to sleep. Once she is sleepy put her in her crate with her blanket from her litter and shut the door.

 

If she whines or cries give her a few minutes to settle down on her own. If she continues to cry you can open the door and put your hand inside with her until she settles down. Sometimes it can help to put the crate next to you in your room for the first few nights. It's okay if your puppy cries a bit. It's not going to hurt him/her! If your puppy wakes up in the middle of the night and cries then take him out to your designated potty spot quickly and without making too much fuss. Puppies will often potty as soon as their feet hit the floor so it helps to pick them up and carry them to the potty spot. Remember that this is just potty time not play time. You can give a small treat and then right back to the crate. Follow the same procedure as at bedtime. An 8 week old puppy should be able to go 3-6 hours and in a crate without needing to go out. Some can go all night. You don't need to wake you puppy up.  They will let you know if they need you. 

Grooming: Puppies only need to be washed about every 6-8 weeks. Dogs have a carefully balanced skin and hair system. Over-washing can strip natural oils from the skin and cause an overproduction of oil which can make them smell bad! Dirty feet and coats can be rinsed off but they don't need to have shampoo every time. All goldendoodles need to be groomed regularly. A good groomer will start slowly with a puppy and include a more thorough cut as the puppy gets more comfortable with the grooming table. Use a slicker brush to detangle hair every couple of days. If your puppy won’t stop biting the brush give him a bully stick while you work.

 

Make sure to trim hair out of your puppy's eyes. Vision neuro-pathways are still developing so your puppy needs to be able to see clearly to fully develop his full visual fields. Using a pair of blunt tip hair cutting scissors you can also trim the hair around your puppy's bottom to keep it from getting matted/packed. Not all doodles have hair in their ears but many do. The hair will need to be plucked out to prevent ear infections. It's not as bad as it sounds! Most dogs don't seem to mind at all. We usually let the groomer do this but you can give it a go yourself if you feel ambitious! Tiny puppies can have toenails trimmed with a regular nail cutter but as the nails harden you will need a round nail cutter so you don't smash the nail flat. Lay the cutter flat along the pad of your puppy's foot and then tilt it up just slightly so you can trim the edge of the nail without worrying about getting the quick. We also use a nail dermal tool on their toenails that we love.

Collar and leash: Start with an extra small collar for mini doodles and a small for standards. You will have to replace this collar as your puppy grows so don't put a ton of money into this first collar. We don't like retractable leashes. We've seen them cause too many injuries to hands and legs! We prefer a six foot flat woven leash but we also have a few dollar store leashes around the house and in the car just in case. When you are working on distance recall you might want a longer (20 foot+) lead but we often just use a rope in those cases. If you are having trouble with pulling on the leash try a gentle leader collar. It won't hurt your puppy and will keep both of you safe while you walk.

Exercise: Puppy joints and bones are still developing until 18-24 months. It's good to avoid excessive jumping and stair climbing until after two years of age. Puppies and dogs need plenty of exercise for both mental and physical health. Running around in a backyard is great but a walk is even more important for leadership and health. Please avoid walking in areas that are heavily populated with other dogs until after 13 weeks weeks when all shots are given. After 13 weeks, 1/2 mile to a mile every day is great for puppies. As adults, small dogs can run as far as big dogs without any trouble. We have had some of our mini doodles run with their people to train for marathons.

Toys: Puppies are going to be getting an entire new set of teeth and that involves CHEWING! It is helpful to have a stash of acceptable chew items all over the house. When you see your puppy chewing something that isn't meant to be chewed (i.e. your favorite shoes or your daughter's barbie...we speak from experience here...) stop the puppy and give him something that is acceptable to chew. We like Kong toys (stuff them with sticky food mixed with dry food to keep a puppy busy), bully sticks, nylon ropes and any other teeth friendly toys! Some of our doodles LOVE balls and keep one (or two!) in their mouth at all times. Just make sure it is big enough that your puppy can't choke on it.

Shots and Vet check: Your puppy will have a check with our vet at 6 or 7 weeks of age. You need to take your puppy to your vet by the time he/she is 8 weeks 2 days old so we can make sure that we can all agree on the health of the puppy. Your puppy’s eight week shots will be due at that first vet visit. Colostrum from mom's milk provides immunity (to all diseases for which mom has been vaccinated) for anywhere from 5-12 weeks. Vaccines can't work with the puppy's own immune response system until the immunity from mom's milk wears off. There is no way to tell when the passive immunity from mom's colostrum ends and when the active immunity from vaccines can start. That's why it's important to follow your vet's preferred vaccination schedule!

 

We have seen puppies get parvo--it's heartbreaking and expensive. There is only one vaccine (Neopar)  that is able to stimulate your puppy’s immune system in the presence of mom’s antibodies.  Neopar offers some early protection against parvo.  We give Neopar at 5 weeks but your puppy won’t have full protection against parvo.  It is important to get the full puppy vaccines done at 8, 12 and 16 weeks of age.  It’s also important that the final set of shots is not given before 15 weeks of age to have full protection against parvo and other illnesses. 

Your puppy will have multiple doses of dewormer to make sure there are no worms or parasites when your puppy goes home. Parasites are common in the dog world and we recommend giving a three day dose of Safeguard dewormer yearly as a precaution. 

 

Spay/Neuter: We have spent years of work learning about genetics and thousands of dollars testing parents to make sure that all dogs we breed have the very best chance to be healthy, happy dogs. We think all puppies deserve the same intense planning! It's really important to us that none of our puppies reproduce. We do occasionally sell breeding rights to respected breeders that we have worked with but we want to make sure that all of our dogs are protected against unwanted pregnancy by being spayed and/or neutered! We prefer to do this procedure before our dogs hit puberty. Most of our families are not prepared to live with a sexually mature dog.  Especially with males, neutering before puberty can help alleviate marking or other unwanted behaviors. We recommend that you spay/neuter around 6-9 months of age or as recommended by your vet. Many vets prefer to wait until a year of age to help with developing bones and joints.  We are fine with that as long as you understand the importance and difficulty of protecting against unplanned breeding or of having a female in heat (bleeding) in your home.  Males can be fertile as early as 4-6 months.  

Dew Claws: We don't remove dew claws anymore. Removing the dew claw (with the bone it attaches to) can also cause arthritis in older dogs. If you want your dew claws removed you can have it done during spay/neuter. 

"Olive/Maverik 6/17/2021" 5 weeks

(Green Boy) -Wavy/Abstract/Cream/Apricot (Blue Boy) -Wavy/Extreme Parti/Cream/Apricot

(Pink Girl) -Wavy/Extreme Parti/Apricot/Red  Orange)-Wavy/Abstract/Cream/Apricot

This week the puppies will begin to spend more time outside during the day when we have nice weather.  They will eventually spend time outside every day sun, rain or snow.  All dogs need to be comfortable with going outside in all kinds of weather.

The puppies are all very steady on their feet now and are getting really playful (especially with each other).  They are doing great with their potty training by using the potty area about 95% of the time and they are keeping their beds clean all of the time. We will introduce crates to the puppies this coming week. We put all their soft bedding in the crates to encourage them to choose the crate for sleeping.  They usually all pile in one crate together as they still need each other for warmth and comfort.  

Puppies are now transitioning over to solid dry crunch kibble as they are getting their teeth

This is week three of the socialization period. This week the puppies have begun to learn and be shaped by other adult dogs in the household but especially mom.  Learning dog manners is a skill that can only be taught by other dogs! We always watch interactions with other dogs closely. Mom is really the best teacher as she will stop or pin puppies that are overly energetic or that aren't picking up on cues to settle down.  This interaction is important to learning good dog social skills. They are also learning how to use their teeth without causing damage.  They teach each other that lesson as they constantly mouth and play with each other.

We will give the puppies their Neopar vaccines this week.  Neopar helps develop immunity to Parvo--it is the only vaccine that is effective at this young age as these puppies still have passive immunity from nursing with mom.  Some vets prefer to give full immunizations at 6 weeks of age but shots at this early stage are less than 30% effective.  They have a much better immune response at 8 weeks. Our neonatal specialist recommends waiting until 8 weeks for full immmunization.  Parvo is the most prevalent puppy illness so getting a head start with Neopar is important.  We will talk more about vaccines in the take home information.

This week our puppies usually hit what is called a fear period.  This period can last only an hour or a few days.  We will take extra care to be sure that if they exhibit any fear towards anything we will scale back and individually help them overcome those fears slowly.  Yawning, crying, hiding or avoiding are all signs of fear in a puppy. This is also the week we begin "Manding" with the puppies.  Manding is teaching the puppy to sit to 'say please.'  This type of sit is not a cued behavior (we aren't asking them to sit), we are just instilling a natural instinct to settle down and sit calmly to get what they want.  It's a way for them to communicate with us in a polite way.  We simply approach them with a handful of soft treats and we give a treat to any puppy sitting quietly.  We ignore the puppies that are jumping and pawing us.  Eventually they all catch on that sitting nicely is what gets the reward.  Peer pressure is a great thing with puppies! By the end of this week they will all have caught on and will begin expressing this very desirable behavior whenever we approach the pen.

The puppies had their first barrier challenge this past week.  For a mental challenge that encourages problem solving and stress tolerance, we introduce a barrier that they have to navigate to get to their food.  It can be as simple as putting their food around a corner at first. We allow each puppy to negotiate the challenge at their own pace and we watch each puppy to make sure they successfully navigate to their food before we make things harder.

 

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"Olive/Maverik 6/17/2021" 3 weeks

(Green Boy) -Wavy/Abstract/Cream/Apricot (Blue Boy) -Wavy/Extreme Parti/Cream/Apricot

(Pink Girl) -Wavy/Extreme Parti/Apricot/Red  Orange)-Wavy/Abstract/Cream/Apricot

Everyone has their eyes open and this past week the babies all started to toddle around really well and have started to find their little voices. Tomorrow we will introduce a new bed/sleeping area along with our new pee/pooping area to help start these little ones on a path to easier potty training. In the beginning we have one soft bed area and the rest of the pen is potty area.  We use the puppies' natural instinct to keep their bed clean to help with potty training--the minute they step off their bed to go potty they will be in the desired area. Once they are accustomed to use the paper/grate area for potty we will be able to make their play/sleep area bigger. 

 

This week puppies will leave the transitional period and will enter the socialization period.  During this time their ears open and they begin to hear.  The puppies live in our living room so they are naturally exposed to a variety of noises that will help them adjust to family life: TV/movies in the background, children playing, vacuums running etc.are all familiar sounds to these babies.  Over the next we will also work on some startle recovery exercises. For startle recovery exercises we will randomly make sudden unusual noises that may startle the puppies ever so slightly to help shape their emotional responses. We watch closely to make sure there isn't a fear response and if necessary we will work with individual puppies more gradually to help them adjust to the noises. 

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"Olive/Maverik 6/17/2021" 2 weeks

(Green Boy) -Wavy/Abstract/Cream/Apricot (Blue Boy) -Wavy/Extreme Parti/Cream/Apricot

(Pink Girl) -Wavy/Extreme Parti/Apricot/Red  Orange)-Wavy/Abstract/Cream/Apricot

Puppies are all doing great.  Everyones eyes have opened.  They are starting to move around a bit. We've begun handling the puppies a lot more. Handling by young children is a daily occurrence here at the Thompson household because we have a built in 4 year old to help socialize them.  

At two weeks of age the puppies leave the neonatal period and enter what is called the transitional period.  Traditional period is typically between days 14-21.  During this time we will begin to introduce them to a new novel item and or have a new experience daily.  These items and experience will help to build a healthy startle/recover/curiosity/and exploration cycle with the puppies to lay the foundation for a confident puppy. This week we will take a dermal nail trimmer to the puppies nails to begin to get them used to vibration and trimming of the nails.  These puppies will have a lifetime of grooming and will need to be handled by their feet and toes on a regular bases.  Doing these things with them early and using items like this that cause vibration regularly will help to start to set them up for success for their many groomings they will have.

"Olive/Maverik 6/17/2021" 1 week

(Green Boy) -Wavy/Abstract/Cream/Apricot (Blue Boy) -Wavy/Extreme Parti/Cream/Apricot

(Pink Girl) -Wavy/Extreme Parti/Apricot/Red  Orange)-Wavy/Abstract/Cream/Apricot

Puppies are 1 week old and have all more than doubled their weight.  These first 3 weeks they grow so fast!

Momma is still doing most of the work right now feeding, cleaning, and keeping them warm and happy.  We are enjoying giving them short times of daily handling and ENS daily.      

 The puppies are entering their 2nd week of the Neonatal period.  We will continue doing ENS until they are 16 days old.  At this stage the puppies can't see or hear--scent is their main interaction with the world.  They are surprisingly agile little crawlers but they aren't able to get up on their feet yet.  Their eyes will open somewhere between 10 days and 2 weeks. 

"Olive/Maverik 6/17/2021" Newborn

(Green Boy) -Wavy/Abstract/Cream/Apricot (Blue Boy) -Wavy/Extreme Parti/Cream/Apricot

(Pink Girl) -Wavy/Extreme Parti/Apricot/Red  Orange)-Wavy/Abstract/Cream/Apricot

Olive started panting heavily late Saturday night and delivered her first puppy at 1:00 AM Sunday morning.  The last puppy was delivered at 3:00 AM and Olive settled right in snuggling up to her babies to take a rest.  She is doing great caring for them keeping them clean, fed and warm.  Today as we took her puppies away from her to take some quick photos she was not supper fond of the idea and was grateful when I returned them to her.  

The puppies have transitioned through delivery are now in the Neonatal period. The Neonatal period last for two weeks.  During this time we pay close attention to the little pups to be sure each is thriving and growing. We watch weights and observe feedings to make sure everyone is eating and gaining weight.  Momma does most of the work right now and we just do a lot of observation.  Mom will tend and care for her puppies instinctively and make sure all is well by keeping them fed, clean, and warm. She licks constantly to stimulate their elimination systems and to keep them clean. We will begin Early Neurological Stimulation on day three.  ENS is a an exercise developed by puppy behaviorists and trainers that is designed to stimulate neuro-pathway growth and start the physiological basis for resistant and predictable neurological development. Is takes only a few seconds per puppy. We hold each puppy upright, head-down down and flat on the back.  Then we apply pressure to one paw near the toes and then set them on a cold cloth.  Each exercise is done for to 2-3 seconds. We will also clip sharp little toenails as needed.

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Previous Puppies from Olive

Olive & Winston
Medium Multi-Gen Goldendoodles 40 lb
Born: December 17th, 2020
Go home: Tuesday February 9th, 2021
If Transportation to Boise airport is required go home will be Feb 12th

Olive has a beautiful litter of 7 puppies!  We have 4 boys and 3 girls.  They will all have nice wavy red coats.  Most puppies have large abstract white markings on their chest with white feet.  Some of the puppies also have white blaze down their nose with a white muzzle.  

 

Male

1) Breeder pick (Light Blue)

2)Nathan  Crissy Hogg (McCall ID) Orange Collar

3) Melinda Dunham (Seattle WA) Green Collar

4)Terra Corcoran (Hailey ID) Dark blue collar

Female

1) Breeder pick Billie Jenkins (NC) Purple Colla

2) Bonnie Sutton (Pau, ID) Yellow collar

3) Andrea Barajas (Las Vegas, NV) Pink Collar

Olive

Medium

F1b English

Goldendoodle

36 pounds, 19" tall

Red

Loose Wavy

non-shedding

Winston

Medium

Multi-Generational

Goldendoodle

40 pounds, 19" tall

Red

Straight

non-shedding

No puppies are available from this litter

 Olive's "Christmas" 7 weeks

("Martha Ma" Pink) -wavy abstract red Female ("Cousin Eddie" Light Blue) -wavy large blaze abstract red Male

("Cindy Lou" Purple) -wavy abstract red female ("Buddy" Green) -wavy abstract apricot/red 

("Noel" Yellow) -wavy abstract apricot/red Female ("Ralph" Blue) -wavy abstract red Male

("Snowball" Orange)-wavy Tuxedo large blaze abstract apricot/red Male

Puppies are preparing to go home in this coming week!  I know everyone is excited to finally meet their puppy and start this new venture with their baby.  A new puppy is always an exiting and welcome addition. We know that many of these babies will be going to families who have been planning and preparing for this little puppy for quite some time so the anticipation is very high.  In this past week these little ones went to their first vet appointment and everyone checked out good.  I will include vet notes and a medication record with your take home packet. 

There are really just a couple of things that you really have to have before you bring a puppy home. 

1. Collar and leash.  get a size "small" collar and a plain flat leash. 

2. Crate and pad.  . 

3.  Food.  You should already have received your food.  If not talk to me and I might be able to help you. 

3. Chew toys.  You need to have something for those little teeth to chew on.  We've given lots of ideas in our take home information.  

We are continuing with daily interaction and the puppies enjoy meeting new people.  We can see more and more of their little personalities. Their brains are fully developed at this point and they are ready for one on one training.  We don't generally start specific training with the puppies but we do introduce them to the clicker which will make things easier when they get home.

A few tips to remember when you first meet your puppy:

  • Puppies use smell as their primary sense.  Let them smell and greet you before you pick them up.  

  • If you are bringing kids, remind them that high pitch noises or squealing is stressful for the puppy.  They should greet the puppy calmly and quietly and let the puppy smell them first. 

  • Take them straight to your potty area first thing when you get home.  Pick them up and carry them there.  Bring treats to reward potty immediately then take them in the house and let them sniff around to get used to a new place. 

  • Introduce your existing pets one at a time and only when both dogs are calm.  If your dog jumps and barks and cries when you walk in the door then that is not a good time to introduce the new puppy.  Outside or in a neutral house location is also best i.e. don't take the puppy to your older dog's favorite bed to meet him.  

  • The babies still sleep almost as much as they are awake.  If your puppy is acting really hyper he may be overstimulated.  Put him in his crate or on a bed in a quiet location to settle down. Add a chew toy if he is having trouble settling. If he  still won't calm down then take him outside agin for a few minutes and ignore him as he runs around then try settling down again. 

  • Remind kids that if the puppy is on his bed or in his crate he is off limits.  Puppies should have a safe place to go to when they have had enough 'kid' time. 

  • It's not unusual for them to refuse food or eat only a little for a couple of days. Don't panic. They will eat when needed.

 Olive's "Christmas" 6 weeks

("Martha Ma" Pink) -wavy abstract red Female ("Cousin Eddie" Light Blue) -wavy large blaze abstract red Male

("Cindy Lou" Purple) -wavy abstract red female ("Buddy" Green) -wavy abstract apricot/red 

("Noel" Yellow) -wavy abstract apricot/red Female ("Ralph" Blue) -wavy abstract red Male

("Snowball" Orange)-wavy Tuxedo large blaze abstract apricot/red Male

We will give the puppies their first full bath this week.  Usually at first they act a little reserved but quickly warm up to the idea. Lots of our doodles are influenced by their poodle ancestors and they absolutely love water.

 

They will have their first little mini grooming session this week as well.  We trim their back sides to help keep them clean (mom stopped cleaning them when they started eating solid foods) and we cute the hair out of the corner of their eyes so that their vision development is unobstructed.  As always we keep their little razor sharp toenails trimmed as well. The puppies have gotten really fun to watch playing together. 

The puppies will receive fenbendazole (dewormer medicine) this week .

This is week 4 of the socialization period. Puppies have now learned to take food from my hand and are doing great with manding.  Every time we feed the puppies we call them with a high pitch "here pup, pup, pup, pup, pup, pup" similar to how you hear people call a kitty.  They now have a great recall down and will come any time I call out like this.  It is so important to have a good "recall" with a puppy to help keep them from trouble.  This recall will transition to the dogs name once you have him/her in your home.

Below I have outlined a few helpful tips for when your puppy comes home.

Feeding: We give our puppies free access to water all the time.  Your puppy is eating ¼-½  cup dry dog food three times a day. Puppies use the bathroom right after they eat and drink (and play and sleep) so having a feeding schedule will help get a routine set.  We also like to give food and water outside any time we can. We recommend that you start with three times a day and then move to twice a day as your puppy gets older. Take water up a couple of hours before bedtime.

Training: Your puppy is using a dog door to go outside to potty. While this is a great start to potty training your puppy still needs to learn that she HAS to go out to go potty. You will have to spend some time together to figure out how your puppy 'asks' to go out. Some sit by the door. Some scratch or whine at the door. Some will come get you. Some ring a bell. Once you have communication going it will be easier for you to pick up on your puppy’s cues and vice versa. While you are working on figuring out cues remember that puppies need to potty every couple of hours--especially after eating, sleeping and playing. They will usually sniff the ground and turn in a circle before they use the bathroom. Choose a potty area outside and take your puppy there every time they use the bathroom. It can be helpful to take them on a leash and keep them near you until they have finished. Once they have used the bathroom (give food treats liberally--braunschweiger is great for this!) take the leash off and let them run around and play.

 

We love clicker training for young puppies.  Using a clicker and treats is not bribing.  It's simply operant conditioning.  Puppies will do what works-- if sitting politely makes good things happen then your puppy will sit. We have lots of information about clicker training here..  We love BaxterandBella.com training website.  They use a marker work (yes) instead of a clicker.  Both work well for training and are interchangeable.

 

Sleeping: Your puppy has been sleeping in a crate but he/she hasn't slept ALONE in a crate. Sleeping without litter-mates is an adjustment--puppies have an instinct to cry when left alone as a protection mechanism. However, at 7-9 weeks your puppy can learn to sleep alone in a crate comfortably. There are a few things that can make that first adjustment a little easier. 1. Take up food and water a couple of hours before bedtime. 2. Choose a late bedtime. 3. Take your puppy potty just before you go to bed. 4. Hold, pet, soothe your puppy with you until she is dozing off to sleep. Once she is sleepy put her in her crate with her blanket from her litter and shut the door.

 

If she whines or cries give her a few minutes to settle down on her own. If she continues to cry you can open the door and put your hand inside with her until she settles down. Sometimes it can help to put the crate next to you in your room for the first few nights. It's okay if your puppy cries a bit. It's not going to hurt him/her! If your puppy wakes up in the middle of the night and cries then take him out to your designated potty spot quickly and without making too much fuss. Puppies will often potty as soon as their feet hit the floor so it helps to pick them up and carry them to the potty spot. Remember that this is just potty time not play time. You can give a small treat and then right back to the crate. Follow the same procedure as at bedtime. An 8 week old puppy should be able to go 3-6 hours and in a crate without needing to go out. Some can go all night. You don't need to wake you puppy up.  They will let you know if they need you. 

Grooming: Puppies only need to be washed about every 6-8 weeks. Dogs have a carefully balanced skin and hair system. Over-washing can strip natural oils from the skin and cause an overproduction of oil which can make them smell bad! Dirty feet and coats can be rinsed off but they don't need to have shampoo every time. All goldendoodles need to be groomed regularly. A good groomer will start slowly with a puppy and include a more thorough cut as the puppy gets more comfortable with the grooming table. Use a slicker brush to detangle hair every couple of days. If your puppy won’t stop biting the brush give him a bully stick while you work.

 

Make sure to trim hair out of your puppy's eyes. Vision neuro-pathways are still developing so your puppy needs to be able to see clearly to fully develop his full visual fields. Using a pair of blunt tip hair cutting scissors you can also trim the hair around your puppy's bottom to keep it from getting matted/packed. Not all doodles have hair in their ears but many do. The hair will need to be plucked out to prevent ear infections. It's not as bad as it sounds! Most dogs don't seem to mind at all. We usually let the groomer do this but you can give it a go yourself if you feel ambitious! Tiny puppies can have toenails trimmed with a regular nail cutter but as the nails harden you will need a round nail cutter so you don't smash the nail flat. Lay the cutter flat along the pad of your puppy's foot and then tilt it up just slightly so you can trim the edge of the nail without worrying about getting the quick. We also use a nail dermal tool on their toenails that we love.

Collar and leash: Start with an extra small collar for mini doodles and a small for standards. You will have to replace this collar as your puppy grows so don't put a ton of money into this first collar. We don't like retractable leashes. We've seen them cause too many injuries to hands and legs! We prefer a six foot flat woven leash but we also have a few dollar store leashes around the house and in the car just in case. When you are working on distance recall you might want a longer (20 foot+) lead but we often just use a rope in those cases. If you are having trouble with pulling on the leash try a gentle leader collar. It won't hurt your puppy and will keep both of you safe while you walk.

Exercise: Puppy joints and bones are still developing until 18-24 months. It's good to avoid excessive jumping and stair climbing until after two years of age. Puppies and dogs need plenty of exercise for both mental and physical health. Running around in a backyard is great but a walk is even more important for leadership and health. Please avoid walking in areas that are heavily populated with other dogs until after 13 weeks weeks when all shots are given. After 13 weeks, 1/2 mile to a mile every day is great for puppies. As adults, small dogs can run as far as big dogs without any trouble. We have had some of our mini doodles run with their people to train for marathons.

Toys: Puppies are going to be getting an entire new set of teeth and that involves CHEWING! It is helpful to have a stash of acceptable chew items all over the house. When you see your puppy chewing something that isn't meant to be chewed (i.e. your favorite shoes or your daughter's barbie...we speak from experience here...) stop the puppy and give him something that is acceptable to chew. We like Kong toys (stuff them with sticky food mixed with dry food to keep a puppy busy), bully sticks, nylon ropes and any other teeth friendly toys! Some of our doodles LOVE balls and keep one (or two!) in their mouth at all times. Just make sure it is big enough that your puppy can't choke on it.

Shots and Vet check: Your puppy will have a check with our vet at 6 or 7 weeks of age. You need to take your puppy to your vet by the time he/she is 8 weeks 2 days old so we can make sure that we can all agree on the health of the puppy. Your puppy’s eight week shots will be due at that first vet visit. Colostrum from mom's milk provides immunity (to all diseases for which mom has been vaccinated) for anywhere from 5-12 weeks. Vaccines can't work with the puppy's own immune response system until the immunity from mom's milk wears off. There is no way to tell when the passive immunity from mom's colostrum ends and when the active immunity from vaccines can start. That's why it's important to follow your vet's preferred vaccination schedule!

 

We have seen puppies get parvo--it's heartbreaking and expensive. There is only one vaccine (Neopar)  that is able to stimulate your puppy’s immune system in the presence of mom’s antibodies.  Neopar offers some early protection against parvo.  We give Neopar at 5 weeks but your puppy won’t have full protection against parvo.  It is important to get the full puppy vaccines done at 8, 12 and 16 weeks of age.  It’s also important that the final set of shots is not given before 15 weeks of age to have full protection against parvo and other illnesses. 

Your puppy will have multiple doses of dewormer to make sure there are no worms or parasites when your puppy goes home. Parasites are common in the dog world and we recommend giving a three day dose of Safeguard dewormer yearly as a precaution. 

 

Spay/Neuter: We have spent years of work learning about genetics and thousands of dollars testing parents to make sure that all dogs we breed have the very best chance to be healthy, happy dogs. We think all puppies deserve the same intense planning! It's really important to us that none of our puppies reproduce. We do occasionally sell breeding rights to respected breeders that we have worked with but we want to make sure that all of our dogs are protected against unwanted pregnancy by being spayed and/or neutered! We prefer to do this procedure before our dogs hit puberty. Most of our families are not prepared to live with a sexually mature dog.  Especially with males, neutering before puberty can help alleviate marking or other unwanted behaviors. We recommend that you spay/neuter around 6-9 months of age or as recommended by your vet. Many vets prefer to wait until a year of age to help with developing bones and joints.  We are fine with that as long as you understand the importance and difficulty of protecting against unplanned breeding or of having a female in heat (bleeding) in your home.  Males can be fertile as early as 4-6 months.  

Dew Claws: We don't remove dew claws anymore. Removing the dew claw (with the bone it attaches to) can also cause arthritis in older dogs. If you want your dew claws removed you can have it done during spay/neuter. 

 Olive's "Christmas" 5 weeks

("Martha Ma" Pink) -wavy abstract red Female ("Cousin Eddie" Light Blue) -wavy large blaze abstract red Male

("Cindy Lou" Purple) -wavy abstract red female ("Buddy" Green) -wavy abstract apricot/red 

("Noel" Yellow) -wavy abstract apricot/red Female ("Ralph" Blue) -wavy abstract red Male

("Snowball" Orange)-wavy Tuxedo large blaze abstract apricot/red Male

This week the puppies will begin to spend more time outside during the day when we have nice weather.  They will eventually spend time outside every day sun, rain or snow.  All dogs need to be comfortable with going outside in all kinds of weather.

The puppies are all very steady on their feet now and are getting really playful (especially with each other).  They are doing great with their potty training by using the potty area about 95% of the time and they are keeping their beds clean all of the time. We will introduce crates to the puppies this coming week. We put all their soft bedding in the crates to encourage them to choose the crate for sleeping.  They usually all pile in one crate together as they still need each other for warmth and comfort.  

Puppies are now transitioning over to solid dry crunch kibble as they are getting their teeth

This is week three of the socialization period. This week the puppies have begun to learn and be shaped by other adult dogs in the household but especially mom.  Learning dog manners is a skill that can only be taught by other dogs! We always watch interactions with other dogs closely. Mom is really the best teacher as she will stop or pin puppies that are overly energetic or that aren't picking up on cues to settle down.  This interaction is important to learning good dog social skills. They are also learning how to use their teeth without causing damage.  They teach each other that lesson as they constantly mouth and play with each other.

We will give the puppies their Neopar vaccines this week.  Neopar helps develop immunity to Parvo--it is the only vaccine that is effective at this young age as these puppies still have passive immunity from nursing with mom.  Some vets prefer to give full immunizations at 6 weeks of age but shots at this early stage are less than 30% effective.  They have a much better immune response at 8 weeks. Our neonatal specialist recommends waiting until 8 weeks for full immmunization.  Parvo is the most prevalent puppy illness so getting a head start with Neopar is important.  We will talk more about vaccines in the take home information.

This week our puppies usually hit what is called a fear period.  This period can last only an hour or a few days.  We will take extra care to be sure that if they exhibit any fear towards anything we will scale back and individually help them overcome those fears slowly.  Yawning, crying, hiding or avoiding are all signs of fear in a puppy. This is also the week we begin "Manding" with the puppies.  Manding is teaching the puppy to sit to 'say please.'  This type of sit is not a cued behavior (we aren't asking them to sit), we are just instilling a natural instinct to settle down and sit calmly to get what they want.  It's a way for them to communicate with us in a polite way.  We simply approach them with a handful of soft treats and we give a treat to any puppy sitting quietly.  We ignore the puppies that are jumping and pawing us.  Eventually they all catch on that sitting nicely is what gets the reward.  Peer pressure is a great thing with puppies! By the end of this week they will all have caught on and will begin expressing this very desirable behavior whenever we approach the pen.

The puppies had their first barrier challenge this past week.  For a mental challenge that encourages problem solving and stress tolerance, we introduce a barrier that they have to navigate to get to their food.  It can be as simple as putting their food around a corner at first. We allow each puppy to negotiate the challenge at their own pace and we watch each puppy to make sure they successfully navigate to their food before we make things harder.

 

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 Olive's "Christmas" 3 weeks

("Martha Ma" Pink) -wavy abstract red Female ("Cousin Eddie" Light Blue) -wavy large blaze abstract red Male

("Cindy Lou" Purple) -wavy abstract red female ("Buddy" Green) -wavy abstract apricot/red 

("Noel" Yellow) -wavy abstract apricot/red Female ("Ralph" Blue) -wavy abstract red Male

("Snowball" Orange)-wavy Tuxedo large blaze abstract apricot/red Male

This past week they have all begun to toddle around really well and have become quite vocal. Tomorrow we will introduce a new bed/sleeping area along with our new pee/pooping area to help start these little ones on a path to easier potty training. 

This week puppies will leave the transitional period and will enter the socialization period.  During this time their ears open and they begin to hear.  We will start some sound protocols with them this week.  Some of those include listening to classical music, exposing puppies to common "upsetting" appliances such as the vacuum and blow dryer,  and doing some startle recovery exercises.  For startle recovery exercises we will randomly make sudden unusual noises that may startle the puppies ever so slightly to help shape their emotional responses. Fortunately for us--because the puppies live in our living room they are naturally exposed to typical household noise all the time

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 Olive's "Christmas" 2 weeks

("Martha Ma" Pink) -wavy abstract red Female ("Cousin Eddie" Light Blue) -wavy large blaze abstract red Male

("Cindy Lou" Purple) -wavy abstract red female ("Buddy" Green) -wavy abstract apricot/red 

("Noel" Yellow) -wavy abstract apricot/red Female ("Ralph" Blue) -wavy abstract red Male

("Snowball" Orange)-wavy Tuxedo large blaze abstract apricot/red Male

Puppies are all doing great.  Everyones eyes have opened.  They are starting to move around a bit. We've begun handling the puppies a lot more. Handling by young children is a daily occurrence here at the Thompson household because we have a built in 4 year old to help socialize them.  

At two weeks of age the puppies leave the neonatal period and enter what is called the transitional period.  Traditional period is typically between days 14-21.  During this time we will begin to introduce them to a new novel item and or have a new experience daily.  These items and experience will help to build a healthy startle/recover/curiosity/and exploration cycle with the puppies to lay the foundation for a confident puppy. This week we will take a dermal nail trimmer to the puppies nails to begin to get them used to vibration and trimming of the nails.  These puppies will have a lifetime of grooming and will need to be handled by their feet and toes on a regular bases.  Doing these things with them early and using items like this that cause vibration regularly will help to start to set them up for success for their many groomings they will have.

Olive "Christmas"  1 week

("Martha Ma" Pink) -wavy abstract red Female ("Cousin Eddie" Light Blue) -wavy large blaze abstract red Male

("Cindy Lou" Purple) -wavy abstract red female ("Buddy" Green) -wavy abstract apricot/red 

("Noel" Yellow) -wavy abstract apricot/red Female ("Ralph" Blue) -wavy abstract red Male

("Snowball" Orange)-wavy Tuxedo large blaze abstract apricot/red Male

Puppies are one week old today.  They have all almost doubled their weight. These first 3 weeks they grow so fast!

Momma is still doing most of the work right now feeding, cleaning, and keeping them warm and happy.  We are enjoying giving them short times of daily handling.  Our family loves the newborn puppy stage! 

    

 This week the puppies will be entering their 2nd week of the Neonatal period.  When the puppies were 3 days old we started Early Neurological Stimulation (ENS). We will continue doing ENS until they are 16 days old.  ENS is a combination of different tests and stimuli that is designed to get your puppy comfortable being handled, desensitize him/her to discomforting touch, and to stimulate growth or neuropathways.  ENS includes handling the puppy upright, upside-down, on their backs, tickling their toes, and setting them on a cold surface.

Olive "Christmas"  Newborn

("Martha Ma" Pink) -wavy abstract red Female ("Cousin Eddie" Light Blue) -wavy large blaze abstract red Male

("Cindy Lou" Purple) -wavy abstract red female ("Buddy" Green) -wavy abstract apricot/red 

("Noel" Yellow) -wavy abstract apricot/red Female ("Ralph" Blue) -wavy abstract red Male

("Snowball" Orange)-wavy Tuxedo large blaze abstract apricot/red Male

Olive had us guessing for a few days.  She tricked us out at one point--we thought she was in labor and then she stalled and decided she wasn't ready.  Finally late last night she popped!  Olive did a great job with her delivery and like always is being a fabulous momma to her cute little ones.  Start to finish Olive's labor lasted 3 hours. 

The puppies have begun life and are in what is called the Neonatal period. Neonatal period last for two weeks.  During this time we pay close attention to the little pups to be sure they are thriving and growing--making sure everyone is eating and gaining weight.  Momma does most of the work right now and we just do a lot of observation.  Mom will tend and care for her puppies instinctively and make sure all is well by keeping them fed, clean, and warm. We will begin stroking them and handling them right away to get them used to touching and handling as much as momma will permit.

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