Paris & Winston
Medium Multi-generational Goldendoodles 40-45 pounds
Due: Mid Augast 
Match Date: When puppies are born
Go home: Begining of October 

The puppies from this litter will sell for $2000 

We were so happy with the puppies Paris and Winston had with their last two litters that is was a no brainer to pair them for the third time.. We are happy to announce Paris had her final litter late at night on Tuesday August 17th. We have 3 cream/apricot males  (1 curly abstract, 1 wavy abstract, and 1 curly solid).  We have two chocolate females (1 curly,  1 wavy).  We have 3 cream/apricot females (1 curly abstract, 1 wavy abstract, and 1 curly solid)   

Females

1) Mary Jacobs, Wavy Abstract cream (Light Blue) Hailey, ID

2) Delanie Garrett, Curly Abstract cream (Purple)  Corbett, OR 

3) Gay Durward, Wavy Solid chocolate (White) Olympia, WA

4) Jaylyn Rudd, Curly Solid chocolate (Yellow) Jerome, ID

5) Paula Shaffer, Curly Solid cream/apricot (Pink) Ketchum, ID

Males

1) Simona Alexe, Abstract cream (Green) Jackson Hole, WY

2) Evie Ward, Wavy Abstract cream (Red) Olympia, Wa

3) Salasa Raman, Curly Solid cream (Blue) Bothell, WA

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Paris

Small Standard

F1B English Goldendoodle

40 pounds, 22" tall

Black Parti

Curly

non-shedding

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Winston

Medium

Multi-Generational   Goldendoodle

40 pounds, 19" tall

Red

Straight

non-shedding

Paris

Scroll down to see  Paris's current and previous puppies 

Breed: F1b Standard English Goldendoodle
Parents: Linna and Shooter
Coat Color: Black & White
BbEe, a/a KB/ky
Coat type: Wavy, non shedding
Hair Curl: C/c
Furnishings: F/F
Parti: Yes
Shed: C/C
Birth Day: August 10, 2016
Height: 22”
Weight: 40 pounds
Penn Hip: Right 0.45 Left 0.47
OFA Prelim: Good
Elbows: Normal
Patella: Normal
Eye Cerf: Clear
Cardiac: Normal
Dentition: Full Dentition (Normal)
Ichthyosis (PNPLA1) Carrier
Lives with a guardian family in Boise

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Paris/Winston "French " 6 weeks

 (Pink Girl "Marseille") Curly Apricot Solid  Green Boy "Normandy") - Curly Cream/Apricot Abstract

(Purple Girl "Lille") - Curly Cream/Apricot Abstract Blue Boy "Reims") -Wavy Cream/Apricot Solid

 (Red Boy"Lyon") -Wavy Cream/Apricot Abstract (White Girl "Nice")-Wavy Chocolate Solid 

(Yellow "Dijon") -Curly Chocolat Solid (Light Blue Girl"Brittany") -Wavy Cream/Apricot Abstract

This past week all the puppies had their first full bath this week.  Usually at first they act a little reserved but quickly warm up to the idea. Lots of our doodles are influenced by their poodle ancestors and they absolutely love water.

 

After their bath we gave them their first little mini grooming session.  We trimmed their back sides to help keep them clean (mom usually stops cleaning them when they start eating solid foods) and we cute the hair out of the corner of their eyes so that their vision development is unobstructed.  As always we keep their little razor sharp toenails trimmed as well. The puppies have gotten really fun to watch playing together.  

The puppies received fenbendazole (dewormer medicine) this past  week .

This is week 4 of the socialization period. Puppies have now learned to take food from my hand and are doing great with manding.  Every time we feed the puppies we call them with a high pitch "here pup, pup, pup, pup, pup, pup" similar to how you hear people call a kitty.  They now have a great recall down and will come any time I call out like this.  It is so important to have a good "recall" with a puppy to help keep them from trouble.  This recall will transition to the dogs name once you have him/her in your home.

The babies are all doing great sleeping in crates.  They still usually pile into one crate together but we offer them a couple of sizes of crates and they sometimes nap all alone.  We don't close the door with them and we don't have them sleeping separately at this stage.  

Make sure you are prepared!

Puppies are preparing to go home in this coming week!  I know everyone is excited to finally meet their puppy and start this new venture with their baby.  A new puppy is always an exiting and welcome addition. We know that many of these babies will be going to families who have been planning and preparing for this little puppy for quite some time so the anticipation is very high.  In this coming week these little ones will go to see the vet for their vet check.  I will include vet notes and a medication record with your take home packet. 

There are really just a couple of things that you really have to have before you bring a puppy home. 

1. Collar and leash.  get a size "small" collar and a plain flat leash. 

2. Crate and pad.  See our Supply page to determine the size of crate to get.  This litter is expected to be 40-50 lb and 19-22" tall

3.  Food.  You should already have received your food.  If not talk to me and I might be able to help you. 

3. Chew toys.  You need to have something for those little teeth to chew on.  We've given lots of ideas in our take home information.  If you don't provide something they will find something. 

A few tips to remember when you first meet your puppy:

  • Puppies use smell as their primary sense.  Let them smell and greet you before you pick them up.  

  • If you are bringing kids, remind them that high pitch noises or squealing is stressful for the puppy.  They should greet the puppy calmly and quietly and let the puppy smell them first. 

  • Take them straight to your potty area first thing when you get home.  Pick them up and carry them there.  Bring treats to reward potty immediately then take them in the house and let them sniff around to get used to a new place. 

  • Introduce your existing pets one at a time and only when both dogs are calm.  If your dog jumps and barks and cries when you walk in the door then that is not a good time to introduce the new puppy.  Outside or in a neutral house location is also best i.e. don't take the puppy to your older dog's favorite bed to meet him.  

  • The babies still sleep almost as much as they are awake.  If your puppy is acting really hyper he may be overstimulated.  Put him in his crate or on a bed in a quiet location to settle down. Add a chew toy if he is having trouble settling. If he  still won't calm down then take him outside agin for a few minutes and ignore him as he runs around then try settling down again. 

  • Remind kids that if the puppy is on his bed or in his crate he is off limits.  Puppies should have a safe place to go to when they have had enough 'kid' time. 

  • It's not unusual for them to refuse food or eat only a little for a couple of days. Don't panic. They will eat when needed.

 

Pleas be sure to read through our preparation page found here ...  Take home preparation page--

Paris/Winston "French " 5 weeks

 (Pink Girl "Marseille") Curly Apricot Solid  Green Boy "Normandy") - Curly Cream/Apricot Abstract

(Purple Girl "Lille") - Curly Cream/Apricot Abstract Blue Boy "Reims") -Wavy Cream/Apricot Solid

 (Red Boy"Lyon") -Wavy Cream/Apricot Abstract (White Girl "Nice")-Wavy Chocolate Solid 

(Yellow "Dijon") -Curly Chocolat Solid (Light Blue Girl"Brittany") -Wavy Cream/Apricot Abstract

This week the puppies will begin to spend more time outside during the day when we have nice weather.  They will eventually spend time outside every day sun, rain or snow.  All dogs need to be comfortable with going outside in all kinds of weather.

The puppies are all very steady on their feet now and are getting really playful (especially with each other).  They are doing great with their potty training by using the potty area about 95% of the time and they are keeping their beds clean all of the time. We introduced crates to the puppies this past week. We put all their soft bedding in the crates to encourage them to choose the crate for sleeping.  They usually all pile in one crate together as they still need each other for warmth and comfort.  

Puppies are now transitioning over to solid dry crunch kibble as they are getting their teeth

This is week three of the socialization period. This week the puppies have begun to learn and be shaped by other adult dogs in the household but especially mom.  Learning dog manners is a skill that can only be taught by other dogs! We always watch interactions with other dogs closely. Mom is really the best teacher as she will stop or pin puppies that are overly energetic or that aren't picking up on cues to settle down.  This interaction is important to learning good dog social skills. They are also learning how to use their teeth without causing damage.  They teach each other that lesson as they constantly mouth and play with each other.

We gave the puppies their Neopar vaccines this week.  Neopar helps develop immunity to Parvo--it is the only vaccine that is effective at this young age as these puppies still have passive immunity from nursing with mom.  Some vets prefer to give full immunizations at 6 weeks of age but shots at this early stage are less than 30% effective.  They have a much better immune response at 8 weeks. Our neonatal specialist recommends waiting until 8 weeks for full immmunization.  Parvo is the most prevalent puppy illness so getting a head start with Neopar is important.  We will talk more about vaccines in the take home information.

This week our puppies usually hit what is called a fear period.  This period can last only an hour or a few days.  We will take extra care to be sure that if they exhibit any fear towards anything we will scale back and individually help them overcome those fears slowly.  Yawning, crying, hiding or avoiding are all signs of fear in a puppy. This is also the week we begin "Manding" with the puppies.  Manding is teaching the puppy to sit to 'say please.'  This type of sit is not a cued behavior (we aren't asking them to sit), we are just instilling a natural instinct to settle down and sit calmly to get what they want.  It's a way for them to communicate with us in a polite way.  We simply approach them with a handful of soft treats and we give a treat to any puppy sitting quietly.  We ignore the puppies that are jumping and pawing us.  Eventually they all catch on that sitting nicely is what gets the reward.  Peer pressure is a great thing with puppies! By the end of this week they will all have caught on and will begin expressing this very desirable behavior whenever we approach the pen.

The puppies had their first barrier challenge this past week.  For a mental challenge that encourages problem solving and stress tolerance, we introduce a barrier that they have to navigate to get to their food.  It can be as simple as putting their food around a corner at first. We allow each puppy to negotiate the challenge at their own pace and we watch each puppy to make sure they successfully navigate to their food before we make things harder.

 

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Paris/Winston "French " 4 weeks

 (Pink Girl "Marseille") Curly Apricot Solid  Green Boy "Normandy") - Curly Cream/Apricot Abstract

(Purple Girl "Lille") - Curly Cream/Apricot Abstract Blue Boy "Reims") -Wavy Cream/Apricot Solid

 (Red Boy"Lyon") -Wavy Cream/Apricot Abstract (White Girl "Nice")-Wavy Chocolate Solid 

(Yellow "Dijon") -Curly Chocolat Solid (Light Blue Girl"Brittany") -Wavy Cream/Apricot Abstract

Puppies are all steady on their feet now and are starting to get more and more playful.  They are doing great with their potty training by using the potty area about 75% of the time.  When they don't use their potty area they are using their play area--they are keeping their sleep area completely clean.  

This is week two of the socialization period. Their little teeth are starting to erupt so this week puppies will start on solids and begin the process of weaning.  We take our cues from mama--when she starts standing up to nurse we know it's time to introduce soft solid foods.  First we will use ground food mixed with water. As they get used to eating and swallowing we will use regular food soaked in water until it is soft.  Mom has already started to wean by spending less time in the box with them.  This time will gradually increase over the next 2-3 weeks until they are no longer nursing. Mom still interacts with them throughout the day but she does so in shorter amounts of time. Puppies will participate in their first barrier challenge this week.  Once they are really interested in their food I will place it behind of barrier of some sort so that they can use their problem solving skills to help work through problems or obstacles.

Paris/Winston "French " 3 weeks

 (Pink Girl "Marseille") Curly Apricot Solid  Green Boy "Normandy") - Curly Cream/Apricot Abstract

(Purple Girl "Lille") - Curly Cream/Apricot Abstract Blue Boy "Reims") -Wavy Cream/Apricot Solid

 (Red Boy"Lyon") -Wavy Cream/Apricot Abstract (White Girl "Nice")-Wavy Chocolate Solid 

(Yellow "Dijon") -Curly Chocolat Solid (Light Blue Girl"Brittany") -Wavy Cream/Apricot Abstract

Everyone has their eyes open. This past week the babies all started to toddle around really well and have started to find their little voices. Tomorrow we will introduce a new bed/sleeping area along with our new pee/pooping area to help start these little ones on a path to easier potty training. In the beginning we have one soft bed area and the rest of the pen is potty area.  We use the puppies' natural instinct to keep their bed clean to help with potty training--the minute they step off their bed to go potty they will be in the desired area. Once they are accustomed to use the paper/grate area for potty we will be able to make their play/sleep area bigger. 

 

This week puppies will leave the transitional period and will enter the socialization period.  During this time their ears open and they begin to hear.  The puppies live in our living room so they are naturally exposed to a variety of noises that will help them adjust to family life: TV/movies in the background, children playing, vacuums running etc.are all familiar sounds to these babies.  Over the next we will also work on some startle recovery exercises. For startle recovery exercises we will randomly make sudden unusual noises that may startle the puppies ever so slightly to help shape their emotional responses. We watch closely to make sure there isn't a fear response and if necessary we will work with individual puppies more gradually to help them adjust to the noises. 

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Paris/Winston "French " 2 weeks

 (Pink Girl "Marseille") Curly Apricot Solid  Green Boy "Normandy") - Curly Cream/Apricot Abstract

(Purple Girl "Lille") - Curly Cream/Apricot Abstract Blue Boy "Reims") -Wavy Cream/Apricot Solid

 (Red Boy"Lyon") -Wavy Cream/Apricot Abstract (White Girl "Nice")-Wavy Chocolate Solid 

(Yellow "Dijon") -Curly Chocolat Solid (Light Blue Girl"Brittany") -Wavy Cream/Apricot Abstract

The puppies are all doing great.  We expect everyone's eyes to open up in the next few days. Some of them already have.  It will take a little while for them to be able to see clearly. They are starting to move around more and more.  We've begun handling the puppies a lot more as mom isn't quite as nervous to have them away from her for a few minutes. Handling by young children is a daily occurrence here at the Thompson household because we have a built in 5 year old to help socialize them! 

At two weeks of age the puppies leave the neonatal period and enter what is called the transitional period.  Traditional period is typically between days 14-21.  During this time we will begin to introduce them to a new novel item (toy, new bedding etc.) and or a new experience daily.  These items and experiences will help to build a healthy startle/recover/curiosity/exploration cycle to lay the foundation for a confident puppy. This week we will take a dermal nail trimmer to the puppies nails for a few seconds at a time to begin to get them used to vibration and trimming of the nails.  These puppies will have a lifetime of grooming and will need to be handled on their feet and toes on a regular bases.  Early exposure to common grooming practices will help them be relaxed during grooming for the rest of their lives.  

Paris/Winston "French " 1 week

 (Pink Girl "Marseille") Curly Apricot Solid  Green Boy "Normandy") - Curly Cream/Apricot Abstract

(Purple Girl "Lille") - Curly Cream/Apricot Abstract Blue Boy "Reims") -Wavy Cream/Apricot Solid

 (Red Boy"Lyon") -Wavy Cream/Apricot Abstract (White Girl "Nice")-Wavy Chocolate Solid 

(Yellow "Dijon") -Curly Chocolat Solid (Light Blue Girl"Brittany") -Wavy Cream/Apricot Abstract

Puppies are 1 week old and have all almost doubled their weight.  These first 3 weeks they grow so fast!

Momma is still doing most of the work right now feeding, cleaning, and keeping them warm and happy.  We are enjoying giving them short times of daily handling and ENS daily.      

 The puppies are entering their 2nd week of the Neonatal period.  We will continue doing ENS until they are 16 days old.  At this stage the puppies can't see or hear--scent is their main interaction with the world.  They are surprisingly agile little crawlers but they aren't able to get up on their feet yet.  Their eyes will open somewhere between 10 days and 2 weeks. 

Paris/Winston "French " Newborn

 (Pink Girl "Marseille") Curly Apricot Solid  Green Boy "Normandy") - Curly Cream/Apricot Abstract

(Purple Girl "Lille") - Curly Cream/Apricot Abstract Blue Boy "Reims") -Wavy Cream/Apricot Solid

 (Red Boy"Lyon") -Wavy Cream/Apricot Abstract (White Girl "Nice")-Wavy Chocolate Solid 

(Yellow "Dijon") -Curly Chocolat Solid (Light Blue Girl"Brittany") -Wavy Cream/Apricot Abstract

The puppies from this litter will sell for $2000 

Paris did great with her delivery. We have 8 healthy beautiful babies.  Paris delivered her first baby at 7:35 Pm and then stalled for a couple of hours.  Her next puppy came a little over 2 hours later and was twice the size of her first little girl. After that it was smooth sailing and puppies came quickly.  Last little baby was born at12:05 am.  Momma settled in and went right to sleep with all her babies nestled in her arms.  She of course is being a great momma and tending to her babies wonderfully. It's always a pleasure to have her in our home to whelp puppies.  She is a fairly laid back momma and doesn't seem to get too uptight about much.  

Paris's Guardians have chosen a "French City" Theme.

The puppies have transitioned through delivery are now in the Neonatal period. The Neonatal period last for two weeks.  During this time we pay close attention to the little pups to be sure each is thriving and growing. We watch weights and observe feedings to make sure everyone is eating and gaining weight.  Momma does most of the work right now and we just do a lot of observation.  Mom will tend and care for her puppies instinctively and make sure all is well by keeping them fed, clean, and warm. She licks constantly to stimulate their elimination systems and to keep them clean. We will begin Early Neurological Stimulation on day three.  ENS is a an exercise developed by puppy behaviorists and trainers that is designed to stimulate neuro-pathway growth and start the physiological basis for resistant and predictable neurological development. Is takes only a few seconds per puppy. We hold each puppy upright, head-down down and flat on the back.  Then we apply pressure to one paw near the toes and then set them on a cold cloth.  Each exercise is done for to 2-3 seconds.

Paris and Winston
Medium Multi-generational Goldendoodles 40-45 pounds
Born: February 5, 2021
Match Date: March17th starting around 9:00 AM
Go home: April 1st

Paris Has 7 beautiful babies. We have four black abstracts wavy puppies.  Two are male and one is female.  Two brown curly males.  One is abstract and one is solid.  Two wavy cream/apricot females. One is solid and one is abstract.  I will be sending out an email this week to everyone on our medium list so keep an eye out.  Next week I will reach out to those of you who respond to that email stating you may be interested in a puppy.  

We were so happy with the puppies Paris and Winston had with their last litter that is was a no brainer to pair them again.  While Paris only had two puppies in her last litter with Winston we are expecting more this go around.  She is much larger this time.  We are expecting puppies who are apricot/red, chocolate, and black, abstract.   Their expected adult weight is about 40 pounds full grown.  When we call people for this litter you will be asked to commit to a color.

1) Cassidy Cecil (Grass Valley, CA) Cream/Apricot Female (Pink Collar)

2) Amanda Shioyama (Renton, WA) Cream/Apricot Female ( Yellow collar)

3) Reena Rotz (Lyons, CO) Brown Curly Abstract male​ (Red Collar)

4) Katie Chamberlin (Gresham, OR) Black Abstract Female (Purple collar)

5) Ethan Nguyen (Boise ID) Brown curly Male (Orange collar)

6) Matthew Stevens (Palo Alto, CA) Black wavy Abstract Male (Blue  Collar)

7) Rebecca Allen   (Hines, OR) Black wavy Abstract Male ( Green Collar)

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Paris

Small Standard

F1B English Goldendoodle

40 pounds, 22" tall

Black Parti

Curly

non-shedding

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Winston

Medium

Multi-Generational   Goldendoodle

40 pounds, 19" tall

Red

Straight

non-shedding

Week 7  Make sure you are prepared!

(Green Boy "Picasso") -wavy abstract black boy (Pink Girl "Skye") -wavy/curly solid cream/apricot girl

(Blue Boy "Monet") -wavy abstract black boy (Red "Dali") -curly abstract brown boy

(Purple Girl "Frida") -wavy abstract black girl (Orange "Van Gogh")-curly solid brown boy 

(Yellow "Georgia") -wavy/curly abstract cream/apricot girl

Puppies are preparing to go home in this coming week!  I know everyone is excited to finally meet their puppy and start this new venture with their baby.  A new puppy is always an exiting and welcome addition. We know that many of these babies will be going to families who have been planning and preparing for this little puppy for quite some time so the anticipation is very high.  In this coming week these little ones will go to see the vet for their vet check.  I will include vet notes and a medication record with your take home packet. 

There are really just a couple of things that you really have to have before you bring a puppy home. 

1. Collar and leash.  get a size "small" collar and a plain flat leash. 

2. Crate and pad.  For this litter you will want a size _____ crate. 

3.  Food.  You should already have received your food.  If not talk to me and I might be able to help you. 

3. Chew toys.  You need to have something for those little teeth to chew on.  We've given lots of ideas in our take home information.  If you don't provide something they will find something. 

We are continuing with daily interaction and the puppies enjoy meeting new people.  We can see more and more of their little personalities. Their brains are fully developed at this point and they are ready for one on one training.  We don't generally start specific training with the puppies but we do introduce them to the clicker which will make things easier when they get home.

A few tips to remember when you first meet your puppy:

  • Puppies use smell as their primary sense.  Let them smell and greet you before you pick them up.  

  • If you are bringing kids, remind them that high pitch noises or squealing is stressful for the puppy.  They should greet the puppy calmly and quietly and let the puppy smell them first. 

  • Take them straight to your potty area first thing when you get home.  Pick them up and carry them there.  Bring treats to reward potty immediately then take them in the house and let them sniff around to get used to a new place. 

  • Introduce your existing pets one at a time and only when both dogs are calm.  If your dog jumps and barks and cries when you walk in the door then that is not a good time to introduce the new puppy.  Outside or in a neutral house location is also best i.e. don't take the puppy to your older dog's favorite bed to meet him.  

  • The babies still sleep almost as much as they are awake.  If your puppy is acting really hyper he may be overstimulated.  Put him in his crate or on a bed in a quiet location to settle down. Add a chew toy if he is having trouble settling. If he  still won't calm down then take him outside agin for a few minutes and ignore him as he runs around then try settling down again. 

  • Remind kids that if the puppy is on his bed or in his crate he is off limits.  Puppies should have a safe place to go to when they have had enough 'kid' time. 

  • It's not unusual for them to refuse food or eat only a little for a couple of days. Don't panic. They will eat when needed.

Feeding: We give our puppies free access to water all the time.  Your puppy is eating ¼-½  cup dry dog food three times a day. Puppies use the bathroom right after they eat and drink (and play and sleep) so having a feeding schedule will help get a routine set.  We also like to give food and water outside any time we can. We recommend that you start with three times a day and then move to twice a day as your puppy gets older. Take water up a couple of hours before bedtime.

Training: Your puppy is using a dog door to go outside to potty. While this is a great start to potty training your puppy still needs to learn that she HAS to go out to go potty. You will have to spend some time together to figure out how your puppy 'asks' to go out. Some sit by the door. Some scratch or whine at the door. Some will come get you. Some ring a bell. Once you have communication going it will be easier for you to pick up on your puppy’s cues and vice versa. While you are working on figuring out cues remember that puppies need to potty every couple of hours--especially after eating, sleeping and playing. They will usually sniff the ground and turn in a circle before they use the bathroom. Choose a potty area outside and take your puppy there every time they use the bathroom. It can be helpful to take them on a leash and keep them near you until they have finished. Once they have used the bathroom (give food treats liberally--braunschweiger is great for this!) take the leash off and let them run around and play.

 

We love clicker training for young puppies.  Using a clicker and treats is not bribing.  It's simply operant conditioning.  Puppies will do what works-- if sitting politely makes good things happen then your puppy will sit. We have lots of information about clicker training here..  We love BaxterandBella.com training website.  They use a marker work (yes) instead of a clicker.  Both work well for training and are interchangeable.

 

Sleeping: Your puppy has been sleeping in a crate but he/she hasn't slept ALONE in a crate. Sleeping without litter-mates is an adjustment--puppies have an instinct to cry when left alone as a protection mechanism. However, at 7-9 weeks your puppy can learn to sleep alone in a crate comfortably. There are a few things that can make that first adjustment a little easier. 1. Take up food and water a couple of hours before bedtime. 2. Choose a late bedtime. 3. Take your puppy potty just before you go to bed. 4. Hold, pet, soothe your puppy with you until she is dozing off to sleep. Once she is sleepy put her in her crate with her blanket from her litter and shut the door.

 

If she whines or cries give her a few minutes to settle down on her own. If she continues to cry you can open the door and put your hand inside with her until she settles down. Sometimes it can help to put the crate next to you in your room for the first few nights. It's okay if your puppy cries a bit. It's not going to hurt him/her! If your puppy wakes up in the middle of the night and cries then take him out to your designated potty spot quickly and without making too much fuss. Puppies will often potty as soon as their feet hit the floor so it helps to pick them up and carry them to the potty spot. Remember that this is just potty time not play time. You can give a small treat and then right back to the crate. Follow the same procedure as at bedtime. An 8 week old puppy should be able to go 3-6 hours and in a crate without needing to go out. Some can go all night. You don't need to wake you puppy up.  They will let you know if they need you. 

Grooming: Puppies only need to be washed about every 6-8 weeks. Dogs have a carefully balanced skin and hair system. Over-washing can strip natural oils from the skin and cause an overproduction of oil which can make them smell bad! Dirty feet and coats can be rinsed off but they don't need to have shampoo every time. All goldendoodles need to be groomed regularly. A good groomer will start slowly with a puppy and include a more thorough cut as the puppy gets more comfortable with the grooming table. Use a slicker brush to detangle hair every couple of days. If your puppy won’t stop biting the brush give him a bully stick while you work.

 

Make sure to trim hair out of your puppy's eyes. Vision neuro-pathways are still developing so your puppy needs to be able to see clearly to fully develop his full visual fields. Using a pair of blunt tip hair cutting scissors you can also trim the hair around your puppy's bottom to keep it from getting matted/packed. Not all doodles have hair in their ears but many do. The hair will need to be plucked out to prevent ear infections. It's not as bad as it sounds! Most dogs don't seem to mind at all. We usually let the groomer do this but you can give it a go yourself if you feel ambitious! Tiny puppies can have toenails trimmed with a regular nail cutter but as the nails harden you will need a round nail cutter so you don't smash the nail flat. Lay the cutter flat along the pad of your puppy's foot and then tilt it up just slightly so you can trim the edge of the nail without worrying about getting the quick. We also use a nail dermal tool on their toenails that we love.

Collar and leash: Start with an extra small collar for mini doodles and a small for standards. You will have to replace this collar as your puppy grows so don't put a ton of money into this first collar. We don't like retractable leashes. We've seen them cause too many injuries to hands and legs! We prefer a six foot flat woven leash but we also have a few dollar store leashes around the house and in the car just in case. When you are working on distance recall you might want a longer (20 foot+) lead but we often just use a rope in those cases. If you are having trouble with pulling on the leash try a gentle leader collar. It won't hurt your puppy and will keep both of you safe while you walk.

Exercise: Puppy joints and bones are still developing until 18-24 months. It's good to avoid excessive jumping and stair climbing until after two years of age. Puppies and dogs need plenty of exercise for both mental and physical health. Running around in a backyard is great but a walk is even more important for leadership and health. Please avoid walking in areas that are heavily populated with other dogs until after 13 weeks weeks when all shots are given. After 13 weeks, 1/2 mile to a mile every day is great for puppies. As adults, small dogs can run as far as big dogs without any trouble. We have had some of our mini doodles run with their people to train for marathons.

Toys: Puppies are going to be getting an entire new set of teeth and that involves CHEWING! It is helpful to have a stash of acceptable chew items all over the house. When you see your puppy chewing something that isn't meant to be chewed (i.e. your favorite shoes or your daughter's barbie...we speak from experience here...) stop the puppy and give him something that is acceptable to chew. We like Kong toys (stuff them with sticky food mixed with dry food to keep a puppy busy), bully sticks, nylon ropes and any other teeth friendly toys! Some of our doodles LOVE balls and keep one (or two!) in their mouth at all times. Just make sure it is big enough that your puppy can't choke on it.

Shots and Vet check: Your puppy will have a check with our vet at 6 or 7 weeks of age. You need to take your puppy to your vet within three business days of receiving your puppy so we can make sure that we can all agree on the health of the puppy. Your puppy’s eight week shots will be due at that first vet visit. Colostrum from mom's milk provides immunity (to all diseases for which mom has been vaccinated) for anywhere from 5-12 weeks. Vaccines can't work with the puppy's own immune response system until the immunity from mom's milk wears off. There is no way to tell when the passive immunity from mom's colostrum ends and when the active immunity from vaccines can start. That's why it's important to follow your vet's preferred vaccination schedule!

 

We have seen puppies get parvo--it's heartbreaking and expensive. There is only one vaccine (Neopar)  that is able to stimulate your puppy’s immune system in the presence of mom’s antibodies.  Neopar offers some early protection against parvo.  We give Neopar at 5 weeks but your puppy won’t have full protection against parvo.  It is important to get the full puppy vaccines done at 8, 12 and 16 weeks of age.  It’s also important that the final set of shots is not given before 15 weeks of age to have full protection against parvo and other illnesses. 

Your puppy will have multiple doses of dewormer to make sure there are no worms or parasites when your puppy goes home. Parasites are common in the dog world and we recommend giving a three day dose of Safeguard dewormer yearly as a precaution. 

 

Spay/Neuter: We have spent years of work learning about genetics and thousands of dollars testing parents to make sure that all dogs we breed have the very best chance to be healthy, happy dogs. We think all puppies deserve the same intense planning! It's really important to us that none of our puppies reproduce. We do occasionally sell breeding rights to respected breeders that we have worked with but we want to make sure that all of our dogs are protected against unwanted pregnancy by being spayed and/or neutered! We prefer to do this procedure before our dogs hit puberty. Most of our families are not prepared to live with a sexually mature dog.  Especially with males, neutering before puberty can help alleviate marking or other unwanted behaviors. We recommend that you spay/neuter around 6-9 months of age or as recommended by your vet. Many vets prefer to wait until a year of age to help with developing bones and joints.  We are fine with that as long as you understand the importance and difficulty of protecting against unplanned breeding or of having a female in heat (bleeding) in your home.  Males can be fertile as early as 4-6 months.  

Dew Claws: We don't remove dew claws anymore. Removing the dew claw (with the bone it attaches to) can also cause arthritis in older dogs. If you want your dew claws removed you can have it done during spay/neuter. 

Paris/Winston "Artist" 6 weeks

(Green Boy "Picasso") -wavy abstract black boy (Pink Girl "Skye") -wavy/curly solid cream/apricot girl

(Blue Boy "Monet") -wavy abstract black boy (Red "Dali") -curly abstract brown boy

(Purple Girl "Frida") -wavy abstract black girl (Orange "Van Gogh")-curly solid brown boy 

(Yellow "Georgia") -wavy/curly abstract cream/apricot girl

We plan to give the puppies their first full bath this week.  Usually at first they act a little reserved but quickly warm up to the idea. Lots of our doodles are influenced by their poodle ancestors and they absolutely love water.

 

After their bath they will have their first little mini grooming session.  We trim their back sides to help keep them clean (mom usually stops cleaning them when they started eating solid foods) and we cute the hair out of the corner of their eyes so that their vision development is unobstructed.  As always we keep their little razor sharp toenails trimmed as well. The puppies have gotten really fun to watch playing together.

The puppies will receive fenbendazole (dewormer medicine) this week .

This is week 4 of the socialization period. Puppies have now learned to take food from my hand and are doing great with manding.  Every time we feed the puppies we call them with a high pitch "here pup, pup, pup, pup, pup, pup" similar to how you hear people call a kitty.  They now have a great